First off, happy holidays, folks! A lot has been going on in my life as of late. Andriy and I have been preparing for a big life changing event to take place here in a few weeks and I can’t wait to tell you all about it once it’s set in stone (no, we’re not pregnant). I don’t want to jump the gun and relay too much in case things don’t work out, because c'est la vie, ya know, but overall, things are really good. I’m learning to love every second of when things are good and not anticipate shit hitting the fan like I've been doing lately, and so, this new practice has put me in a better headspace.
Well, without further ado, this multimedia blog story is about my not-so-long-ago solo girl trip to the unincorporated Lincoln Town; located just 60 miles west of Roswell, New Mexico.
I have to say, this trip was AWESOME! In fact, it sparked a bit of newfound love within me for New Mexico; which, if you know me, I have quite the fight with this state (for reasons I've listed below), so it's always nice when I've found a new moment and place at which to embrace this interesting place.
Nonetheless, Lincoln Town’s legend is the epitome of what I dislike about New Mexico; corruption, the centralized power, the social ostracization of the disadvantaged, and violent crime. In my opinion, these characteristics still persist in New Mexico, but this story isn’t about that; though, it’s important context in order to understand why Lincoln Town became an American legend. It was the town’s socioeconomic climate - yes, similar to those characteristics I listed above - during the 1870s and 1880s that gave rise to the Lincoln County War… oh, and this one dude you’ve probably heard of, named Billy the Kid.
Time & Place
The area was first home to the Mogollon (we learned about these indigenous peoples in my “Southwest Excursion with a German” blog story - so, go peep that) and then it became home to the Mescalero Apaches. No other Native Americans in the Southwest caused terror and constant fear in settlers as the Apaches did throughout their existence. They raided Spanish, Mexican and American settlers, and were known to be expert guerrilla fighters who defended their homelands.
Then in 1850, Spanish-speaking settlers arrived and named the area La Placita de Rio Bonito, meaning “the place along the pretty river”. That name would stick for about two decades, when in in 1869, just four years after the end of the Civil War, the county and town would be named after the late president - Abraham Lincoln.
The Lincoln County War
Half a decade later, L.G. Murphy, a businessman of sorts, would establish his store, with the first bank in New Mexico to follow (est. 1870). Murphy’s store would serve as the single lending institution in the area, which in a cash-poor, barter economy, would allow him to amass a ranching empire, as customers traded in their livestock for store goods, in addition to his mercantile businesses.
As fate would have it, Murphy soon became the all-in-power head honcho who controlled the entire economy of the region. His partner Dolan, would help him run the lot of mercantile stores they owned, earning this duo the nickname “The House”. There was a third chess piece in this game and his name was Sheriff William Brady - he was the enforcer. Together the three lived, worked and existed above the law in every absolute sense of the word.
One day, a 20-something affluent John Tunstall from London, England docked his ship in Lincoln, opened up his own mercantile and bank, and stirred a fury of angry dirt devils on the long-time turf of Murphy, Dolan and Brady. An honest and smart man, however, Tunstall immediately saw that he was wading in troubled waters and thus sought straightening out the law with the help of justice of the peace John Wilson and constable Dick Brewer; Tunstall would become the appointed foreman.
Wilson, Brewer and Tunstall employed a young William H. “Billy” Bonney, later known as Billy the Kid (because he looked like a kid - people were just simple in that way back then), and some other cowboys as deputies. They called themselves the Regulators.
The Regulators quickly got to work killing off Brady’s cronies. And, as you you’ve probably figured - Sheriff Brady and his cronies quickly got to work killing off the Regulators.
Long story short, - this is a really simplified version of the series of events that took place, mind you - Tunstall was eventually murdered by Sheriff Brady and so, started the Lincoln County War. Folks were shot dead in the street just for being in alliance with the wrong side. President Rutherford Hayes even declared Lincoln’s main street,
“The most dangerous street in America.”
It was ugly.
Well, the town remained in factions from April 1878 clear to December 1880, when the Lincoln County War finally burned itself out. In that span of time, however, many events rolled out that kept Lincoln in the headlines throughout the nation.
Sheriff Brady was killed in early April - Billy the Kid did so in avenging his friend, Tunstall’s, death - and in an effort to restore order, New Mexico Governor Wallace declared general amnesty of all participants in the Lincoln County War.
Enemies made truce, even Billy the Kid and the last of his Regulators with ol’ Murphy and Dolan, but this peace deal doesn’t last long, of course.
Shit, this is the Wild West, we’re talking about! Get with it, now!
Rather, an entirely new manhunt is set forth when a lawyer, Huston Chapman, who worked on the side of the late Tunstall, is shot dead by Murphy, Dolan and their cronies during the trucing period.
In the name of justice, Governor Wallace calls for the arrest of anyone having to do with Chapman’s murder and secretly meets with Billy the Kid behind the San Juan Mission Church to offer him amnesty for his testimony against Dolan, as well as surrender himself to the law.
Billy the Kid does exactly that and testifies against Dolan in front of a grand jury, but as you’ll know it, the charges were dropped (this seemingly black magic still exists in good ol’ New Mexico, btw), and Billy the Kid is left to rot in jail, because, yup, Governor Wallace doesn’t keep his word either.
Betrayed, the Kid rides out of Lincoln and takes up cattle rustling - thus, the antihero is born.
As the national headhunt for Billy the Kid ensues, a new sheriff is elected in Lincoln - Pat Garrett - and he is determined as all hell or high water to bring in Billy the Kid. So, Garrett and his men hunt down the Kid and eventually capture him and throw his ass back in jail. Billy writes Governor Wallace asking him to honor their agreement, but the Kid is ignored. Wallace’s words were long gone from his own mind at this point as he too placed a $500 cash reward for the Kid, dead or alive (that’s about $12,000 today).
It’s 1881 now, a total of five years has passed since hell began, and the Kid has been sent to trial where he becomes the only person convicted of crimes related to the Lincoln County War. As he awaits his execution, he is kept shackled and chained to the floor at the Lincoln jailhouse.
One day, he breaks free, kills a few guards on his way out and hops a horse that one of his townsfolk sympathizers provides him and off he goes to Ft. Sumner. Garrett catches word of the Kid’s whereabouts, heads straight to him and guns down the 21 year old. The folk hero and antihero, Billy the Kid, dies on July 14, 1881.
Lincoln Town and Billy the Kid remain notorious in American history.
The Self-guided Tour
Another neat thing about Lincoln Town is that it’s formatted to be entirely self-guided. All you need to do is stop by the Anderson-Freeman Visitor Center & Museum, buy yourself a $5 ticket, grab a map and be on your way to visit about 10 historical locations all scattered along Lincoln’s Main Street. You literally stand in the exact spot at which monumental history took place - it’s a wild feeling and one I’m freaking addicted to.
Most of all, you will need a good day to spend running through this historical gamut. The main drag is about a mile or two long and I spent a good 30 minutes to one hour at each location. Lots to read, folks… lots.
Some museums are open to the public from April 1 to October 31, while others are open year round, so be sure to visit the Lincoln Town website to get the best bang for your buck and time. The town opens at 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. everyday.
The Vlog
Peep this neat travel vlog I put together that illustrates my time exploring Lincoln Town. You should read this blog post to have context of what I'm showing you in the vlog - btw.
Also, stay tuned for Part II of my solo girl trip adventure. Next time, I’ll be talking about Fort Stanton’s After Dark tour, its recorded paranormal activities, where to eat and sleep, and other features in the area about which to take note.
And here is a dog in pink boots...
Oh yeah, and Happy New Year!
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